Gerber Skeleton Frame Knive’s – Bare Essentials

What’s up Steel Junkies,

It’s been a while since I have reviewed a new product, I only want to review products that I actually put to the test for you so you are getting a real honest review. So today we are going to go back to the basics and review two different blades from Gerber. We are gonna be learning about the Gerber Paraframe I Stainless Steel Serrated knife, and the Gerber RipStop Stainless Steel Straight Edge. These two blades are some of Gerber’s more affordable knives. I purchased both these at Target. The Paraframe I was roughly $30.00 and the RipStop I was about $15.00. First lets learn a little bit about the history of Gerber.

Gerber Logo

History of Gerber:

Gerber was founded in 1939 by a gentleman named Joseph R. Gerber in Portland Oregon. Gotta love that this is a good old North West company. It started out as a small batch of handmade cutlery sets that were given as holiday gifts. It quickly turned into thousands of retail accounts around the country. Gerber makes different knives for different purposes.

Military:

Gerber Cable Dawg

They specialize in Military were every design is based on direct feedback from members of our Armed Forces. Iconic knives such as Mark I, Mark II, and the Guardian series are some of the inspirations for Gerbers Military knife lines. Some of the innovative products that they have developed for the Military is the Cable Dawg, LMF II and the De Facto which serve alongside the standard issue Gerbers such as MP600 and the Gerber Strap Cutter.

Hunting:

Gerber Gator

From the smallest game to the epic trophy, Gerber equips the great predator on earth The Hunter. They focus on making their blades evenly balanced and tough as nails, they focus on making specific gear with long lasting blades, tactile handles and all weather sheaths. Their most famous hunting knife is the Gator which has paved the way for some of todays most innovative blades on the market.

Survival:

Gerber Bear Grylls

Some men enjoy hunting in the great outdoors and some men just enjoy being in the great outdoors. For the men that enjoy nature for what it is they have created the Bear Grylis line of knives. They specialize in knives for the first timer boy scout on their first trip to the seasoned adventurer exploring some of the highest mountains in the world.

Tactical:

Gerber Covert

Gerber created the Tactical line to service the men and women who protect us on the home front from Police officers, to firefighters, to EMTs. One staple of that line is the Covert series which was developed in conjunction with one of the greatest close quarters combat and fighting instructors Colonel Rex Applegate.

Outdoor:

Gerber E-Z Out

Gerber takes being outdoors to the next step and they do not generalize they specialize by making knives that are specific to all activities, Their Outdoor line specializes in Hiking, Camping. Be the man who is prepared for everything with E-Z Out Rescue, and don’t forget the new Steady blade which are breaking ground in the industry and challenging the status quo on what tools can do.

Essentials:

Gerber Compact Sport MP400

Next they have what they call the Essentials. Gerber Essentials are the tools and knives that get us out of unexpected jams every single day. They are the pocket tools, multi-pliers and everyday carry. One of their top sellers is the Compact Sport MP400 and the Gerber LST, they both utilize their famous one handed open and close technology.

Industrial:

Gerber Groundbreaker

Last but not least is the Industrial line. We cannot forget the men and women who build out countries infrastructure. They are constructed with advanced materials, both lightweight and indestructable, every tool is designed for all-day efficiency and durability. One of the top sellers is the Gerber Legend and the Gerber Groundbreaker.

Over the last 70 plus years Gerber has taken your grandpa’s wooden handle folder blade and took it to the next level.

Gerber Paraframe

Now lets get back to business and review the Paraframe I. The Paraframe I  has eight different knives in the series. I carry the serrated for those extra tough cutting jobs. The Paraframe I is based on a minimal frame lock design. It is wonderfully simple, open frame(skeleton) knife with a serrated locking blade that is super lightweight, it cleans easily and opens effortlessly. The Paraframe is built with a smooth stainless steel handle and a pocket clip to secure the blade to your pocket. The knife has an overall length of 7.01 inches with a blade length of 3.01 inches. Closed it is only 4.11″ with a total weight of 2.6 oz. The blade of the knife is a Clip Point that is made of High Carbon Stainless Steel. The Paraframe is a great everyday folder. I personally used it as my EDC for about two years and didn’t have to sharpen it once. It could have used one but it was not necessary. I mostly used it for cutting boxes, rope, paper, and fabric and anything else that came across the blade, it made quick work of everything I put to the test. For the price it is a great knife, and I really like the skeleton handle. It was the first knife I owned that was this style and I was a little concerned about the lack of grip but I didn’t have any problems. After owning the knife for 4 years and it being my EDC for 2 straight years the knife has no blade play at all. It is as tight today as it was the first day I took it out of the package which is pretty amazing for a $30.00 knife.

Gerber RipStop

Next up we are gonna be reviewing the Gerber RipStop I, the blade I own has a fine straight edge with a Clip Point tip. Gerber built these knives for the non-conformist in you. The RipStop I is super lightweight from lock concept that delivers bold strength and high functionality. The weight of the all Stainless Steel blade that is only 5.75″ in overall length, with a blade length of 2.3″ and when closed it is only 3.4″ is only 2 oz because of the intriguing handle and blade design. All bulk has been stripped off this streamlined race car of a blade. The RipStop has dual thumb studs that make opening the blade a snap for either left or right handers, and closing it is just as simple one handed. I have really enjoyed owning this knife. I bought it only a few months after I purchased the Paraframe because of the skeleton style handle like the Paraframe. I actually carried both blades most of the time, I would carry the larger Paraframe in my back pocket and the smaller RipStop in the front pocket. Sometimes you just didn’t need a 4 inch blade to do the work a 2 in blade could just as easy. It is also not as threatening when whipping it out at work and cutting open a box especially when you work with all women, or when they ask to use something to open a box or package. I could hand them the smaller of the two blades and they don’t look at me like I am some blade freak for having a huge pocket knife even though secretly I am. bwahahahaha(that was supposed to be my evil genius laugh). Once again this knife has cut everything I asked it to but unfortunately it dulled rather fast on me and after years of abuse the blade has quite a bit of play on it. It wiggles back and forth and side to side, and with the design you cannot tighten it without specialized tools. For $15.00 the blade is a good buy and I would recommend it to anyone looking for a small pocket knife for light duty jobs. I recommend this knife for any women who want a small knife they can carry in their purse without adding much weight at all.

So today we reviewed two different Gerber knives, the RipStop I, and the Paraframe I. Both are lightweight and stainless steel blades that I would recommend to anyone who needs a lightweight durable knife for light duty jobs. I hope this review will help you in deciding if one of these knives is right for you. If you have any questions or comments please leave them in the comments section and I will answer them. Also don’t forget to click on the follow link so you don’t miss out on any updates.

Thanks for reading and keep buying those blades, in my opinion you can never own enough. Blade Junkie for life.

nw Tacitacl

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Tactical Tips – Point Shooting

Sup Y’all gun geeks,

We’re gonna be reviewing Point Shooting. I really think more people should be training using this method for short distance CQC(Close Quarters Combat) then training looking down the barrel using the sights. When push comes to shove your adrenaline will be pumping and your mind will be racing so fast that you will not have the time or wherewithal to even think about using your sights, you will just start blasting away and missing every time. Even our trained LE have that same problem, but now most departments are starting to train with Point Shooting or Flash Shooting. These tactics are used by most of the top shooters in the world such as Delta Force, SEAL Team Six, SAS 22. It takes a lot of practice to get good at or even sufficient. You will need to be at the range day after day putting hundreds if not thousands of rounds down range, but in the end it will be all worth it when it comes time to protect your loved ones.

Recent science says that we lose our near vision and our fine motor skills when our fight or flight response is activated, when sight shooting both of these skills are needed to properly sight shoot. When you are in the fight or flight response you will only be able to do what your muscles have been trained to do. Studies say that most handgun fights are fought within 5-8 yards which doesn’t give you much time to react if you are being charged at or if someone else draws a weapon. Point shooting is a method of shooting a firearm that relies on a shooters instinctive reactions in a life threatening situation to quickly engage close range targets. The method is used in close quarters fighting do to lack of time to react, or you have low light conditions which hinder your ability to use your sights. When practicing point shooting it is very important to have the correct handgun for you, it must feel like an extension of your arm and hand. Do not switch guns when practicing cause the slightest difference in your gun can change the way you point shoot. The weight of the gun, the handle of the gun, the caliber and recoil can all throw off the mechanics that you are teaching your body to use in emergency situations to protect yourself and loved ones.

Now we will go over some techniques to use when point shooting, since to be effective at it you will need to practice a lot. Just like anything else that takes skill, such as basketball, football, baseball. These all take lots of practice to be good at and so does point shooting.

  1. Position yourself 3 yards away from a large(10 inch) target. In an athletic stance where you are on the balls of your feet, execute a tactical quickdraw(covered in previous post) to a firing position and fire multiple rounds into the target. I recommend to fire anywhere between 3-6 shots. DO NOT USE YOUR SIGHTS!!! The point of the drill is to get you used to not using the sights. It may take a while but you will learn to hit center mass of your target every time. One key is to try to do it as quickly as possible, but try to take just enough time to allow the momentum of your arms and gun to slow right before you pull the trigger. I like to call it controlled chaos, I teach it to my 10-year-old basketball team when doing lay up drills. Practice this drill till all your shots are in a grouping of a couple of inches. Grouping is very important, it doesn’t matter if you hit the target every time, if they are all over the place it is not effective. You want your hits in a small group near center mass. Once you have good groups at 3 yards on a 10 inch target move it back a few yards and use a small target and keep going till you reach no further then 8 yards and your target is no bigger then a standard picnic plate.
  2. After you feel you have a good grasp on step one you can start practicing with multiple targets. Try setting up 3 or more targets a couple of yards apart, some closer and some further away but all no further than a 5-8 yards down range. Now execute a tactical quickdraw and go down the line, one shot per target. Once you feel comfortable with this drill and you are hitting center mass change it up. Keep targets in the same spots but put a burst of 2-3 rounds in each. Try them in different order, or have a friend tell you which one to shoot (“one!” “two!” “three, one, two!”), the key thing is to make sure that you can hit your target center mass every time, once you can do this try to accelerate your pace. But remember to always make sure that you are in control and do not try to do more than your skill set allows. To get to this stage will probably take weeks to months of shooting hundreds of rounds every day or multiple times a week.
  3. Once you have mastered step two, try shooting while moving. While moving you should still be able to hit targets at 5 yards. Set up three or more targets a few yards apart. Start about 15-20 yards back and sprint towards your targets, once you are within 5-8 yards of your target tactically quickdraw your gun before you come to a complete stop. Fire a two shot burst, side step to engage the second target and fire a two shot burst, then so on. Each time you run through course, try to do it faster; try not to pause when shooting.

Tips to make you a better:

  1. Accuracy and speed can be improved by a methodical and well executed draw, read my post on Tactical Quickdraw, it should help you understand how to execute properly.
  2. PS abilities vary greatly between people. Dexterity and hand eye coordination are a big component, and some people just are naturally inclined in those two areas. Don’t worry about starting off close to your target, everybody is different it might take you a little longer to figure it out buy with enough practice you will master it. Don’t worry about looking uncool if the target is only a few yards away, it will look a lot more uncool if you are shooting at a target 8 yards away but are missing time after time.
  3. Point shooting is much less efficient at greater distances, this is why I’m saying to shoot no further than 5-8 yards. I will be covering Flash Sighting which you will want to use for greater distances, it only takes a tenth of a second longer but you will land hits about four times as much.
  4. I recommend using a low caliber handgun when starting out. Either a .22 or a 9mm will be best because it has less recoil which will help with grouping and shooting multiple rounds quickly.
  5. Remember SAFETY FIRST ALWAYS. These exercises should only be done by people who are comfortable with handguns. If you are new then you should take some gun safety classes at  your local gun range and practice shooting for a few months to get comfortable. Most of these exercises you will not be able to do in your local gun range for safety reasons so you will need to find an area that always shooting and has lots of wide open space. Make sure to know the state and local gun laws before shooting.
  6. Be sure to know what’s beyond your targets, bullets can travel very far distances.
  7. A great way to practice Tactical Quickdrawing the weapon and shooting motion is to practice with snap-caps, you can buy them at your local gun dealer for under $20.00.

Thanks for reading and I hope you practice this shooting technique cause it will save your life when you are in a life threatening situation. Remember though that this is not a novice technique and you need to practice a lot. This is an expert shooting technique and it takes days, weeks, if not months of practice and hundreds if not thousands of rounds down range before you are consistently hitting center mass with good grouping.

Again thank you for reading and be safe always use gun safety rules when handling a gun.

nwtactical

Tactical Tips – How to be Combat Ready with a Handgun Part I

Springfield EMP

What’s Up Killa’s!!!

Today we are gonna stay true to the blog name and go over some tactical procedures. If you own a gun then you should know how to use it, you should be tactically ready because you never know when you will need it. If you are not ready it could be the difference between your life or the life of a loved one, if you are ready then it should be the life of the person who made the wrong choice to F with you and your family. I’m gonna go over how to be combat ready with a Pistol, their are other weapons that can be used as a self defense/home defense weapon but we are gonna focus on Pistols. Pistols are the most widely used gun for defense from the home to Law Enforcement to Military. Unlike the latter two groups we as civilians do not have extensive training using handguns. I highly recommend taking a handgun class when you purchase a gun. It will go a long way in helping keep you and your family safe from yourself.

The primary purpose of this post will be practicing with the pistol to be used in a defensive manner, but many of these techniques will easily translate to offensive use. While revolvers are a very common handgun, we will be focusing on semi-automatic pistols, since they are more widely used in tactical situations. It is true that revolvers are more reliable and unsurpassed, but when all factors are considered, semi-autos are the weapon of choice for police and armies around the world especially special forces. One important thing to remember is that just because you know how to use the weapon doesn’t mean you can use the weapon when push comes to shove. Not only do you need to know how to use the weapon tactically but you need to have a tactical mindset. 

Before you can learn to use a handgun you have to choose the right handgun for you. The right handgun for you might not be the right handgun for someone else, so don’t take someone elses word for it. Take the time to do the research and go to the firing range and test as many different handguns as you can get your hands on. The choice of weapon can seriously limit your ability to protect yourself with lack of accuracy or, more importantly, reliability. Here are some qualities to look for when purchasing a weapon for this specific use. Remember none of these are absolute as there are exceptions to all of them, and a pistol that fits you personally is always the best choice. Below are some points to remember when choosing the right handgun for you:

  • Larger handguns are usually more accurate than smaller ones, usually larger handguns are more easy to hold since your hand will cover the whole area, weight of gun and the length of the barrel usually helps reduce recoil which aids in grouping and faster follow-up shots.
  • Small pistols are easier to conceal and are lighter to carry.
  • Smaller calibers will result in less recoil, which once again helps with faster follow-up and better grouping. The one trade off is stopping power. Smaller calibers will usually require more shots to slow down or stop the perp. Unless your shot is strategically placed in the head or heart(or if you knee cap them 😉 )
  • Larger calibers will have more stopping power but more recoil.
  • A reliable pistol is more important then accuracy, purchase a high-quality pistol and make sure that you clean and maintain the weapon at all times so that when you need it, it is ready.
  • Semi-Auto’s can be more complicated then revolvers but new polymer guns are pretty simply and do not have that many pieces.
  • In my personal opinion point-shoot accuracy is more important then sighted accuracy when it comes to self defense tactics. 1st: You will want to determine basic point-shoot capabilities of the gun. Take an unloaded gun, close your eyes and point the gun with your finger next to the trigger, but not on it, at a makeshift target. Once you think you have aquired your target open your eyes – the sights should be lined up exactly where  you wanted it. At five yards, it should be no more than a couple inches off center-target. 2nd: If your handgun is pointing high or low, this can be compensated for with practice. For example anyone who has never used a Glock has a high point-shoot location due to the ergonomics of the gun, but with practice you can correct the location. But, if you then pick up a better-fit gun, like a springfield XD(m) you will notice that your point will a lot closer but probably a bit low due the the natural ergonomics of the gun. 

Next up we will be covering how to select a Caliber. This is a very tough choice, I am constantly second guessing myself and changing my mind on what I want. I go back and forth between 9mm or .40S&W. Do I want a bigger caliber with more stopping power or do I want a smaller caliber with less recoil. Also 9mm holds more rounds then a .40S&W. Can I stop the perp with more rounds if they are accurately placed or can I stop the perp with only a couple shots no matter where they are really placed. 

  1. An important rule of thumb is that no cartridge is perfect, so consider both the benefits and drawbacks. Handgun rounds are mostly considered weak and placement is much more important then the round itself. There are some advantages of one round over the other and in a fight the advantage should always be on your side.

There are a few attributes which should always be considered in a caliber:

  1. Permanent Cavity is the resulting “void” in a target where the majority of a bullets energy was transferred and tissue was destroyed. The bigger the Permanent Cavity the better the chance you have to cause fatal damage to the organs or the central nervous system.
  2. Penetration is highly important. If the trajectory does not Penetrate deep enough it may not cause fatal damage to the organs and the damage to the central nervous system may be less severe. It is recommended that each round should penetrate at least 14-16 inches to be considered reliable. This allows the round to penetrate the body at different angles some less desirable then others and still have enough energy to cause maximum damage to vital organs.
  3. Recoil is not talked about enough when it comes to bullet ballistics b/c it is a very subjective and weapon-specific characteristic. Low recoil allow you to have better grouping and faster follow up. Also each handgun will transfer the recoil differently.
  4. Bullet Energy is an extremely emphasized feature. Handguns have an extremely low Bullet Energy. “Knock down power” is a fable born from action movies; stories of people being knocked down when shot is all mental, it has been proven that they fall down because thats what they assume is supposed to happen. People shot with a .22 LR in a non life threatening area have fallen down b/c they assume that since they were shot they should fall down and die.

Last we are gonna do a comparison of the most common semi-automatic handgun rounds:

  • 9mm Parabellum is the most common caliber in the world. The 9mm has a low recoil which allows for quick, accurate follow up shots and small grouping. The 9mm magazine capacity is usually much greater than other larger rounds. They also cost less and the availability is excellent, which in turn makes it the number 1 choice for long term practice. Finally there are wonderful higher pressure loads available called +P rated rounds, producing outstanding self-defense characteristics (make sure your handgun is rated to shoot +P loads).
  • .40 S&W is one of my favorite rounds and is also very common. The .40 S&W is the newest of the three rounds it was created only a few decades ago, to replace the 10mm and was specifically made for Law Enforcement because the rounds they were using at the time (9mm and .38 special) were not cutting the mustard. A couple of benefits of the round is that the flat nose of the bullet creates a larger temporary cavity and also to allow the energy to transfer at a quicker rate to create a sizable permanent cavity.
  • .45 ACP is the largest of the 3 bullets but travels at a lower velocity. The caliber is the only round that can be used efficiently with the sound suppressor due to the fact that the standard round (230 grain) is subsonic under almost all circumstances. The permanent cavity on a ballistic gel of a JHP .45 ACP is about 40% larger than a JHP 9mm. Some of the negatives about the round is that the recoil is vicious but manageable with the correct stance and grip and also the magazine holds a lot fewer rounds then a 9mm or .40 S&W magazine. It is a common saying in LE that if you don’t hit them in the first 3 rounds then you are not gonna hit them at all. So, if you live by that theory then a smaller capacity magazine shouldn’t be a problem.

Those three rounds are the most commonly used rounds in semi-auto pistols but they can also be calibered in .38 special, .357 Magnum, and .44 Magnum. These are common revolver cartridges. The .357 SIG ( a 9mm bullet in a necked down .40 cal casing) and 10mm Auto are also somewhat prevalent autoloader calibers. Another specialty round is the 5.7x28mm, made by FN, (Fabrique Nationale) designed to defeat Class III body armor with this ammunition. These steel-core rounds are not widely available to civilians, but the advantage of the round as a very low-recoil, high velocity round cannot be denied. Due to the calibers tumbling effect in soft targets it will inflict a considerable amount of permanent cavity while still penetrating the required depth of 14 inches. There is a very similar round with similar characteristics is the 4.6x30mm that is created by Heckler and Koch.

Thank you for joining me in Part I of How to be Combat Ready with a Handgun. Please remember that these are my opinions based on the research that I have done and also my experiences shooting and using handguns. These opinions are shared by many experts in the handgun field so please read them carefully. I hope you have learned something reading my blog today. Stay tuned for Part II of How to be Combat Ready with a Handgun. We will be covering how to reloading your pistol, pistol malfunctions, point shooting and flash sighting, how to train yourself, human targets and quick draw. Please leave any comments or questions below and also don’t forget to click the follow button so you don’t miss out on any future posts.

Thanks!!!!

Tactical Tip – Tactical Shooting Positions

What’s Up Y’all,

We are gonna flip the script on you and instead of giving you a survival tip and will be giving you a Tactical Tip, after all this is called NW Tactical. Today we will be going over different shooting positions.

First and foremost is the Ready Positions there are three different type of Ready Positions, all three of these Ready Positions allows you to have one hand off the gun so you can perform seperate tasks, but you are still ready to fire when nessacary.

The first Ready Position is Low and Ready. This is the most common position for tactical shooting. Low and Ready is the best position when you are searching for a target or approaching a target area at a fast rate. This position also is the fastest to move from to a shooting position.

high-ready

High Ready is one of the least common ready positions but something worth knowing, the reason for this is because at most shooting ranges it is against the rules to point your gun straight up in the air because of accidental discharge. No one wants bullets raining down on them. However when in a tactical situation and you are moving around a large group of people it is the safest way to hold your gun. It is also easier to perform tasks with the support hand while holding the gun in a High Ready position, such as reloading, or pulling and tossing a grenade/flashbang to clear a room.

Sling Ready

The last ready position is Sling Ready or in other terms Patrol Ready. You always hear that that you should always be in a low ready position but unfortunately it is just not practical. Sling Ready is the most comfortable position for long term patrols with a rifle like an M16A2 or M4A1. WIth the Sling Ready position you can relax both your arms against your body to prevent fatigue, you can also let go of the weapon to perform two handed tasks while the rifle remains in the Low Ready position so you can move to a firing position quickly.

Next Position group we will cover is the Standing Positions. These positions you are most likely to use while on the move, you first will lay down cover fire and then move to the nearest cover available. There are three standing positions as well.

off hand shooting stance

First standing position is the Traditional Offhand Position. The body is canted towards the target. The firing arm is cocked, and the support arm is directly under the barrel, and the feet are placed firmly at a 90 degree angle. The offhand is good for unsupported accuracy at medium ranges but is slow to get into and out of position. It is also not good for rapid fire because you can not absorb recoil very well. Also the firing arm is very exposed and has a greater chance of banging into walls or door jams when clearing rooms or clearing alleys.

DOD-ModifiedOffhand

Next is the Modified Offhand Position. The body is also canted as to present the smallest target possible to the enemy. In this position you should be bent slightly forward at the hips and both your elbows are dropped towards the ground, this makes it easier to absorb recoil during rapid fire, it also makes it so you do not bump into walls and door jams while clearing rooms. Your feet should be a little wider then your shoulders at a more natural stance so you can move forward and backwards easily and you can also turn your body 180 degrees.

UFP

Last we have the Universal Fighting Position. This position is the most commonly used especially among our elite warriors such as delta force, Navy SEALS and SWAT Teams. In this position both of your feet are pointed directly at the target and your arms are drawn inward. The one down side is that it presents your chest to the target but today’s warriors wear highly effective body armor which makes this position more practical. The shooter should grip the magazine with the support arm or have a pistol grip. Thisis an advanced position and should not be used by novices.

THe next set of positions will be the Low Positions. These should be used when taking cover.

SFP

First is the Squatting Position. Your feet are completely flat on the ground and you are slightly leaning forward. One thing to remember is to not rest your elbows on your knees this will make you very unstable when trying to absorb recoil, remember the saying meat to bone not bone to bone. This position is the most stable, it is much better then any standing position and can be easy to get in and out of.

DSP

The Kneeling shooting position. One foot should be flat on the ground and one knee resting on the ground. Do not sit on your foot cause this will make it hard to move if nessacary. This position is also easy to get in and out of, and remember you should not rest your elbow on your knee but rest your tricep on your knee. Remember the saying meat to bone not bone to bone, just like the squatting position.

SFP

Another Low Position is the sitting position. This is similar to the previous one. You do not want to rest your elbows on your knees, meat to bone. This is the hardest position to get in and and out of, and that is why I do not recommend to use it.

PSP

One of the most stable low positions is the Prone Position. One advantage of the prone position is that you offer the enemy a very small target, the down side is its hard to get in and out of especially when fully kited up. One way to get out of the prone position is to do a prone roll which makes it harder for the enemy to engage.

SSP

Next we will cover Using Support while shooting. Using support should always be a last resort option, mainly because if you are using support then you are most likely exposed. One reason to use support is if you are firing long range and the enemy can not engage you at the distance. Snipers use support all the time and effectively because they are trained to do so.

Lastly we will cover three standing Pistol Shooting Positions. The positions can also be used while kneeling.

Isosceles

Isosceles is when your feet are together and pointed at the target, your body square to the target, both arms fully extended, and with firing hand pushing forward and support hand pulling back slightly this should help you absorb the recoil better. Similar to the UFP above this is a very good position if you are wearing body armor.

Weaver

The Weaver is when the feet are spread about shoulder width and at about 45 degree angle. Both arms fully bent, body canted with respect to target. Firing hand pushing forward and support hand pulling back slightly to absorb recoil.

MWP

Lastly we have the Modified Weaver with your feet spread shoulder width apart and at a somewhat less than 45 degree angle. Firing arm should be mostly straight and support arm bent to help absorb recoil. Most of the arm positions are the way they are to help absorb recoil which is very important so you can shoot rapidly and maintain consistant grouping.

I am sorry that this post is so long but there are a lot of different positions and they are all important to know, you do not have to execute all these positions perfectly but it is good to know what they are and how to utilize them.

Once again thank you all for joining me here and please leave any questions or comments. Also don’t forget to click on the follow button so you don’t miss out on all my new blog posts.

A Great Local Company and a Great Knife – SOG SEAL Pup

Image

What’s up Y’all,

I recently was going thru my wallet and found a gift card in it for Target that was given to me for my Birthday in 2009. I had no idea it was in there so I logged on to Target.com to find out if there was any money on it and to my surprise I still had $50.00 on it, WOW!!! Boy was I happy, I log on to Target and started browsing and I came across the SOG SEAL Pup. I had heard a lot about SOG and thought I would give it a try. It was right around $50.00 with free shipping so I said what the hell, why not. 

When I opened my door a few days later to my surprise there was my new knife on the door step a few days early, and man I was so excited. The knife came in a long rectangular box that had pictures of the knife being used by Constructions workers, Law Enforcement, Survivalists, and Military Special Forces. When I was looking at the box I flipped it over and on the back was the companies address, and to my surprise SOG is a local company. It is based out of Seattle Wa. I had no idea. I felt good about supporting a local company, which I try to do as often as possible. After learning this new detail I excitedly opened the box. I pulled out the knife and it is freaking awesome, and the nylong sheath that came with it was just as good, it looked really cool with the SOG name patch stitched on the front and it had plenty of straps and loops to attach it to your person. It also gave the knife sheath a real tactical look. I really like nylon sheath’s even though a lot of people complain when a company only supplies them calling them cheap, I think they are great because they are light and durable and easy to clean.

SOG SEAL Pup2

After I received my new knife and learned that it was a local company I decided I needed to know more about this company that made this totally kick ass blade. After going to their website and reading the “About Us” page I learned that the company named itself after a covert group called SOG which stood for Special Operations Group and it was a group that was created during Vietnam. I couldn’t believe what I was reading, because I just started reading a book called Hunting the Jackel. The book started off in Vietnam telling the story of Billy Waugh who was part of SOG but at the time they were a covert unit which stood for Studies and Observation Group, it wasn’t till over a decade later that the government released the truth. The company SOG was created in 1986 when a knife designer Spencer Frazier decided he wanted to make a commemorative of the original SOG Bowie knife that was made just for the SOG unit to carry on covert missions in the jungles of Vietnam. The blade was so popular that soon the company created a whole line of innovative knives and tools. The tools were field tested by the best of the best the U.S. Special Forces, they were even honored as the Navy SEAL knife of choice. The company motto is “Forged out of tradition, hardened in the field, honed for you”.

After doing some more researched I learned that the SOG SEAL Pup is a smaller version of the original SOG Bowie Knife. I was elated to have a knife that was model after such a rare blade used by some of the best warriors in the Vietnam War. While their knife was made strictly for killing mine is a utility knife and can be used for many different applications. The SEAL Pup is made out of AUS8 stainless steel that is powder coated to protect against rust and corrosion, the metal is also cryogenically frozen to increase the hardness. The metal blade is brought down to -300 degrees F, then brought back up to room temperature. This process increases the overall toughness and edge retention. The knife edge stays sharp longer with significantly less micro-fracturing and edge chipping. The SEAL Pup has one of the sharpest edges on a knife I have ever seen straight out of the box. I was extremely impressed cause I have a lot of knives made from some of the best companies in the world. The overall length of the knife is 9″ and the blade length is 4.75″. One of the most surprising things about this knife is that it only weighed 5.4 ounces, I couldn’t believe how light it was. The knife has a durable Zytel handle, the handle has great grip but its a little hard. If I had to use the knife for a long period of time I could see this definitely leaving some calluses, but thats part of being a man, right guys!!! It also came with a nylon sheath that was actually pretty good looking and it had lots of straps and loops for attaching to your belt or your tactical vest. One of the features I like best is the accessory pouch on the front, you could put a lot of usually items in it. You could put a two sided sharpening stone or if you were camping/hiking you could put some survival items in it incase something bad happens. 

Holding SOG SEAL Pup

So overall this is a great knife that isn’t to big and heavy and it has a full tang which makes it real strong. If you need an all purpose light utility knife I would recommend the SOG SEAL Pup for any camping trip or hiking adventure you have in store. The knife is great for chopping down saplings for fire wood. I personally can vouch for that and so can the small tree’s and bushes outside my apartment, the gardeners probably didn’t appreciate having to pick up a bunch of branches and leaves that were chopped up into little pieces. It also is sharp and strong enough to split fire wood, which my neighbors probably appreciated when they went to get firewood from their stack and notice it was already split for them. It will make quick work of animal that needs to be killed and skinned for dinner, I didn’t kill any animals with it because I’m not into eating squirells or city birds but I am sure it will do the trick. Also like I mentioned above you can keep survival items in the pouch like a fire starter, fishing wire and hook, even water purifying tablets. Its also very reasonably priced and SOG has a great lifetime warranty, they will pretty much replace it for any reason, other then if you lose it or drop it in the fire and burn it up which is pure stupidity and if thats the case then you probably shouldn’t own a knife. 

Thanks for joining me again here on nwtactical blog, if you own a SOG SEAL Pup and you have a story about it please leave it in the comments section or any comments you might have. Also don’t forget to click on the follow button at the bottom of the page so you don’t miss out on any posts. Also stay tuned cause there will be lots more great reviews coming up.

Para-Cord is amazingly versatile and could save your life!!!

colored-paracord

Welcome back to nwtactical,

Today I am gonna review a product called Para-cord. There are a lot of people out there familiar with this product but there is also way to many people who have never heard of it. I personally love Para-cord for many reasons. Today most people know of Para-cord because of the new fad that is sweeping the nation, Para-cord bracelets. Para-cord comes in every colors imaginable. I personally think the bracelets are a good idea, they look cool and honestly and if you are in a pinch they can be used to save your hid in many situations. One of my favorite uses for Para-cord is wrapping my skeleton knife handles to give them better grip and make them a little more comfortable to hold. See my previous post on ESEE Candiru knife to see how I wrapped the handle using Para-cord.

Here is a little information and history lesson on Para-cord. Para-cord is a lightweight braided nylon sheath with anywhere between 3-7 fine nylon yarns on the inside. The all nylon construction of Para-cord makes it fairly elastic. The most popular and used Para-cord is called 550 cord or Para-cord 550, 550 cord has a minimum tensile strength of 550 lbs and is required to have 7 inner nylon strands. There is other versions of this product with less inner strands and a lower minimum tensile strength but I do not recommend purchasing it, it is the same price but not nearly as strong. So buy the better, stronger cord, trust me you will thank me when push comes to shove and you need it for one reason or another. Alright now here comes the history lesson. 550 cord was first introduced during WWII, the 82nd Airborne and many other Para-Troopers used this cord as Para-shoot cord, hence the word Para-cord. Once in the field Para-Troopers found this cord to be very useful. The Para-Troopers used it as dummy cord to tie their gear to ones person such as cooking pans, canteens, and also turning it into a sling for their M16, or tying rucksacks to vehicles, and securing camouflage nets to trees and vehicles. They would also use them as backup shoe laces, and hey would even gut the cord and use the finer cord as sewing thread to mend torn/ripped gear.

Today 550 cord is available to civilians and is used for almost everything. Like mentioned above the most popular use of 550 cord is to make bracelets. The cord comes in hundreds of different colors so you can pretty much make one to match any outfit you wear. It is also hugely popular in the tactical/survivalist community. Survivalist see this as a survival bracelet and it can be used if you are stranded in the middle of nowhere without many supplies. In a survival situation you can use the cord to pitch a tent, use the inner guts as fishing wire, or as a snare to nab you some dinner. It can also be used in emergency situations to assist in water rescue, or use it as a tourniquet. You can also fashion it into rope to climb up mountains or to lower yourself off cliffs. It is not just used as a fashion statement or survival equipment, it can be used to thread musically instruments such as xylophone, marimba, vibraphone. Some of my favorite uses for Para-cord is of course as a survival bracelet, dog collars/leashes, lanyards, and using on my skeleton handle knives.

paracordbracelet

I have read online a few stories where these bracelets have come in handy when you least expect it. In one story I read a man was working on his roof when his latter fell down and he was trapped. With no one around in shouting distance he decided to use his Para-Cord bracelet as rope. He nailed one end to his roof and used it to lower himself down safely from his two story roof. Another story I read about was a women who got her vehicle stuck in snow and instead of paying hundreds of dollars to get a tow truck she called a friend that owned a truck and used her Para-cord bracelet to attach to the truck and tow herself out. Another one I read was about some young men who where out 4×4 and the steering arms snapped from the axle bracket on their Jeep. They used their Para-cord bracelets to tie the steering arms back to the axel bracket and it work sufficient enough to get them back home without having to tow it for hundreds of dollars. These are just a few instances where the bracelet came in handy, these people never saw these situations coming but being prepared and it saved either their lives or saved them hundreds of dollars.

So in conclusion Para-cord is a complex piece of equipment that can be used for many different applications then just a fashion statement. I highly recommend everyone to keep at least 25ft of cord in theier vehicle, homes and defiantly in your bug-out bag. Also get created and have some fun with it, make a belt for your brother, or a new matching dog collar and leash for fido, use it as a fun craft for the kids to make friendship bracelets for their friends.

If you have an interesting story about how Para-cord saved your butt please write about it in the comments section. I would love to hear them and so would my readers.

Thanks again for joining me and don’t forget to leave a comment and become a follower and don’t miss out a review. If you want a bracelet, or dog collar, or leash, or lanyard leave a message in the comment section and I will be more then happy to make one for you in your choice of color. Also stay tuned for more reviews.

Springfield XD(M) .40S&W

Springfield1

Hi,

Welcome back to NW Tactical, today we are gonna switch gears hear a little bit and instead of reviewing a knife we will review our first gun. This one is my personal favorite polymer pistol on the market. The Springfield XD(m) .40S&W, this pistol not only looks badass but I think its one of the best polymer pistols on the market at this time because of its innovation in egronomics and safety.

First off let me clear up one common question, why is the round called .40S&W, when it is manufactured by Springfield. The .40S&W round was created jointly by Smith & Wesson and Winchester Repeating Arms Company. The .40 S&W was developed from the ground up as a law enforcement cartridge designed to duplicate the performance of the F.B.I. reduced-velocity 10mm Auto cartridge, which could be retrofitted into medium-frame (9mm size) automatic handguns. The reason the F.B.I. needed this type of round is because it needed a handgun that could hold more rounds then your typical 6 shooter revolver and had more stopping power then the 9mm parabellum round. The reason they came to this conclusion is because in the aftermath of the 1986 F.B.I. Miami shootout during which 2 F.B.I. agent were killed and 5 more were wounded sereverly. The F.B.I. agents were totally out gunned by the bank robbers even though they out numbered them 8 to 2, the 2 bank robbers were carrying a Ruger Mini 14 rifle, S&W M3000 shotgun and 2 S&W .357 revolvers. Eventually the two armed robbers were killed but they took some serious lead and kept on going. The F.B.I. chaulked this up to the weapons that the agents were carrying did not have sufficient stopping power.  Hope you enjoyed this little history lesson.

Springfield2

The Springfield XD(M) .40 S&W is a polymer pistol. Polymer is a type of hard plastic that is lighter, resistant to wear, abrasion, solvents, and oils compared to its steel frame brothers. Polymer plastic can be molded into a variety of ergonomic shapes that do not require separate grip panels, permitting them to use high-cap mags without increasing the bulk. It also makes them more adaptable to persons with smaller hands. Another great thing is that the polymer frame flexes under the recoil and also absorbs some of the recoil pulse so they shoot softer then the heavier guns and you can shoot faster while maintaining good grouping.

Now lets move on to the gun features which there are many. The XD(m) is a modified version of the XD which was one of the more popular polymer handguns on the market. Springfield could have been content with the XD and sold them out as fast as they came into the warehouse but they decided they wanted more and boy did they give us more. First off the XD(m) has a match grade barrel which rivals aerospace manufacturing, MG barreling is when the barrel is bored the same thickness with more consistent rifling from the rear of the barrel to the tip, which provides a more accurate shot and better grouping. Match grade is usually an aftermarket part that requires special ordering from a barrel manufacture but Springfield has made this their standard.

Springfield has invented terms for the XD(m) that all start with the letter “M”. Lets explore these features and the clever terms that Springfield as invented. First the XD(m) Major Grasp slide Serrations which means it has deeper serrations on the slide to make it easier to cock the weapon in harsh weather or if you are like me and have sweaty palms.

New home protection system.

Next we have the Mega Lock Texture which gives the weapon an all terrain look. Springfield claims that this isn’t all about cosmetic looks but it sure doesn’t hurt. The extra texture on the handle helps you keep a tighter grip in extreme weather. The angle and depth of each contour has been calculated for maximum control vertically, horizontally, and torsionally, it also asists with long rapid fire strings which once agains assists in grouping. The angle of the handle is very similar to that of the legendary 1911. Like I stated previously the polymer guns have a Model Contour Frame which contours to your hand and makes it feel like the gun is gripping you not you gripping the gun. The gun also comes with 3 different backstrapes that they call Mold-Tru backstrapes. These backstrapes add another layer of comfort to the shooter by conforming to the size of his/her hand. It comes with a small, medium and large size so everyone should be able to find a comfortable grip. Along with the Mold-Tru Backstrapes it comes with Magazine X-Tensions which also assist in making it more comfortable.

One thing that sets Springfield XD(m) apart from other polymer guns on the market is that they use a Melonite finish which is a lot thicker then most finishes used on its competitors. The Melonite finish is a salt bath nitriding process that leaves a thicker, harder and more corrosion resistence finish on the slide.

The XD(m) has a Minimal Reset Trigger which gives it the shortest travel of any polymer gun on the market. The single action trigger is very clean and breaks between 5.5 and 7.7 lbs. The XD(m) also has the shortest reset on the market as well which keeps you on target with a greater ease for faster more accurate follow up shots which once again aides in grouping. The XD(m) has a Picatinny rail system that they call Multi-Adjust Rail System. This allows you to personalize your gun by adding a laser, flashlight system, or even new sights.

The XD(m) comes with a ton of safety features to help the shooter/carry protect himself and the people around him from an accidently discharge. On the slide there are two indicators that tell you the gun is loaded and cocked, first there is an indicator on the slide by the discharge chamber that will protrude from the top to let you know visually and by touch that there is a bullet in the chamber ready to fire. Second there is a pin that protrudes from the back of the slide letting you know that the chamber has been cocked and ready to fire. This pin will protrude even if there is no bullet in the chamber. Some of the other safety features are the Grip Safety which is on the back of the handle and has to be depressed to fire the weapon. Last but defiantly not least is the USA Trigger System. The USA Trigger System stands for Ultra Safety Assurance which guards against accidental discharge from dropping or bumping by locking the trigger in place until direct rearward pressure is applied. Thats four different safety features all on one gun to protect you against accidental discharge. One more thing Springfield has changed about the XD(m) is that you do not have to pull the trigger to field strip the weapon. Talk about field stripping the weapon, the XD(m) only takes seconds to field strip and put back together. With only 5 different parts anyone can field strip the weapon and clean it, which is great for novice shooters or people who are not looking for a complicated home defense system. Springfield is defiantly leading the field in safety which makes them one of the top weapon distributors in my opinion. They have the shooters safety in mind not just their bottom dollar.

Last but not least the Springfield XD(m) comes is a very nice hard plastic carry case that comes with everything you need to use the weapon immediately and it makes a great range case. The case comes with styrofoam cut out for your gun, two magazines(one compact that holds 12 rounds and another extended version that holds 16 rounds), a hard plastic gun holster, a hard plastic magazine holster that holds two fully loaded magazines, a speed loader, three back straps, a gun chain lock, and last but not least cleaning supplies to keep your gun at its best.

Springfield1

In conclusion I think this gun is a no brainer for any level shooter, from beginner to advanced. When I bought this gun I had never owned any type of weapon before. This was my first gun and I am glad that I went with it, I have put over 2,000 rounds thru it without a single jam or malfunction which is a great indicator of the quality of this handgun. The safety features were one of the main reasons I purchased the gun, also the ergonomics of the gun felt like an extension of my arm where as the Glock and other guns didn’t feel as natural when I would point them down range. Also the increased grip texture helped make the gun look pretty badass. I was also looking for a gun with a little more stopping power then a 9mm, but to my surprise I learned that the XD(m) .40S&W is one of the only guns on the market that you can switch to a 9mm with only a few changes. All you have to do is buy a 9mm barrel and some 9mm magazines and switch them out with the .40S&W barrel and the .40S&W magazines and magically you have a 9mm pistol. Two in one, who would have thought. One of the nice things about that is the 9mm bullets are a lot cheaper to purchase then the .40S&W so it helps save money when you just want to go to the range and enjoy blowing the shit out of a target, it also is great if you are sharing this weapon with your spouse because the 9mm round has less recoil and is easier to shoot for women. I would recommend this gun to everyone, from a women just looking for a small concealable gun for self-defense, a husband who is looking for a home defense weapon to protect his family, to a Police Officer looking for a secondary or primary weapon for duty. The XD(m) comes in pretty much every size and caliber that you could possibly want. In this review we focused on the 3.8 Compact .40S&W but they are all exactly the same but for caliber size and barrel length. They come in 3.8″ barrel with full handle and compact handle, and shoot .45ACP, .40S&W, 9mm rounds, its also comes in 4.5″ barrel that shoots .45ACP, .40S&W, 9mm, and last but not least it comes in 5.25″ barrel that shoots .45ACP, .40S&W, and 9mm rounds. What else could you possible want/need in a polymer handgun. I know this was a long blog but I do love this gun and there is a lot to know before you make such an important purchase. I hope this blog will help you make your desicion on if this is the right weapon for you.

Thank you for reading and keep an eye out for my next post. My next post I will be reviewing Smiths SK2 2-Stone sharpening kit. Also please leave a review/comment in the section below.