We’re gonna be reviewing Point Shooting. I really think more people should be training using this method for short distance CQC(Close Quarters Combat) then training looking down the barrel using the sights. When push comes to shove your adrenaline will be pumping and your mind will be racing so fast that you will not have the time or wherewithal to even think about using your sights, you will just start blasting away and missing every time. Even our trained LE have that same problem, but now most departments are starting to train with Point Shooting or Flash Shooting. These tactics are used by most of the top shooters in the world such as Delta Force, SEAL Team Six, SAS 22. It takes a lot of practice to get good at or even sufficient. You will need to be at the range day after day putting hundreds if not thousands of rounds down range, but in the end it will be all worth it when it comes time to protect your loved ones.
Recent science says that we lose our near vision and our fine motor skills when our fight or flight response is activated, when sight shooting both of these skills are needed to properly sight shoot. When you are in the fight or flight response you will only be able to do what your muscles have been trained to do. Studies say that most handgun fights are fought within 5-8 yards which doesn’t give you much time to react if you are being charged at or if someone else draws a weapon. Point shooting is a method of shooting a firearm that relies on a shooters instinctive reactions in a life threatening situation to quickly engage close range targets. The method is used in close quarters fighting do to lack of time to react, or you have low light conditions which hinder your ability to use your sights. When practicing point shooting it is very important to have the correct handgun for you, it must feel like an extension of your arm and hand. Do not switch guns when practicing cause the slightest difference in your gun can change the way you point shoot. The weight of the gun, the handle of the gun, the caliber and recoil can all throw off the mechanics that you are teaching your body to use in emergency situations to protect yourself and loved ones.
Now we will go over some techniques to use when point shooting, since to be effective at it you will need to practice a lot. Just like anything else that takes skill, such as basketball, football, baseball. These all take lots of practice to be good at and so does point shooting.
Position yourself 3 yards away from a large(10 inch) target. In an athletic stance where you are on the balls of your feet, execute a tactical quickdraw(covered in previous post) to a firing position and fire multiple rounds into the target. I recommend to fire anywhere between 3-6 shots. DO NOT USE YOUR SIGHTS!!! The point of the drill is to get you used to not using the sights. It may take a while but you will learn to hit center mass of your target every time. One key is to try to do it as quickly as possible, but try to take just enough time to allow the momentum of your arms and gun to slow right before you pull the trigger. I like to call it controlled chaos, I teach it to my 10-year-old basketball team when doing lay up drills. Practice this drill till all your shots are in a grouping of a couple of inches. Grouping is very important, it doesn’t matter if you hit the target every time, if they are all over the place it is not effective. You want your hits in a small group near center mass. Once you have good groups at 3 yards on a 10 inch target move it back a few yards and use a small target and keep going till you reach no further then 8 yards and your target is no bigger then a standard picnic plate.
After you feel you have a good grasp on step one you can start practicing with multiple targets. Try setting up 3 or more targets a couple of yards apart, some closer and some further away but all no further than a 5-8 yards down range. Now execute a tactical quickdraw and go down the line, one shot per target. Once you feel comfortable with this drill and you are hitting center mass change it up. Keep targets in the same spots but put a burst of 2-3 rounds in each. Try them in different order, or have a friend tell you which one to shoot (“one!” “two!” “three, one, two!”), the key thing is to make sure that you can hit your target center mass every time, once you can do this try to accelerate your pace. But remember to always make sure that you are in control and do not try to do more than your skill set allows. To get to this stage will probably take weeks to months of shooting hundreds of rounds every day or multiple times a week.
Once you have mastered step two, try shooting while moving. While moving you should still be able to hit targets at 5 yards. Set up three or more targets a few yards apart. Start about 15-20 yards back and sprint towards your targets, once you are within 5-8 yards of your target tactically quickdraw your gun before you come to a complete stop. Fire a two shot burst, side step to engage the second target and fire a two shot burst, then so on. Each time you run through course, try to do it faster; try not to pause when shooting.
Tips to make you a better:
Accuracy and speed can be improved by a methodical and well executed draw, read my post on Tactical Quickdraw, it should help you understand how to execute properly.
PS abilities vary greatly between people. Dexterity and hand eye coordination are a big component, and some people just are naturally inclined in those two areas. Don’t worry about starting off close to your target, everybody is different it might take you a little longer to figure it out buy with enough practice you will master it. Don’t worry about looking uncool if the target is only a few yards away, it will look a lot more uncool if you are shooting at a target 8 yards away but are missing time after time.
Point shooting is much less efficient at greater distances, this is why I’m saying to shoot no further than 5-8 yards. I will be covering Flash Sighting which you will want to use for greater distances, it only takes a tenth of a second longer but you will land hits about four times as much.
I recommend using a low caliber handgun when starting out. Either a .22 or a 9mm will be best because it has less recoil which will help with grouping and shooting multiple rounds quickly.
Remember SAFETY FIRST ALWAYS. These exercises should only be done by people who are comfortable with handguns. If you are new then you should take some gun safety classes at your local gun range and practice shooting for a few months to get comfortable. Most of these exercises you will not be able to do in your local gun range for safety reasons so you will need to find an area that always shooting and has lots of wide open space. Make sure to know the state and local gun laws before shooting.
Be sure to know what’s beyond your targets, bullets can travel very far distances.
A great way to practice Tactical Quickdrawing the weapon and shooting motion is to practice with snap-caps, you can buy them at your local gun dealer for under $20.00.
Thanks for reading and I hope you practice this shooting technique cause it will save your life when you are in a life threatening situation. Remember though that this is not a novice technique and you need to practice a lot. This is an expert shooting technique and it takes days, weeks, if not months of practice and hundreds if not thousands of rounds down range before you are consistently hitting center mass with good grouping.
Again thank you for reading and be safe always use gun safety rules when handling a gun.
Let’s jump right into the post today, we are gonna learn how to do a Tactical Quickdraw. Hopefully by the end of this post you can call yourself quickdraw McGraw. You will be able to out draw Billy the Kid. Well probably not that good but after weeks and months of practice you never know you could be the next fastest draw in the west.
Gun fights are usually spur of the moment, you don’t see it coming, and for this reason you need to know how to properly execute a quick-draw. A quick-draw is a skill that you can learn and it needs to be perfected, just like all skills involving weapons. If you do not perfect it you are endangering yourself and the people around you. There are five steps and each have a specific purpose.
Both of your hands should be moving at the same time. You will want to place your support had on or around your upper chest. Your firing hand will move above your pistol grip and come back down on your pistol to secure a solid firing grip while still holstered. The web between your thumb and index finger should be as close to the tang as possible. Your pointer finger should be straight and resting on the side of the holster to release any active-retention system your holster may have. I highly recommend just practicing this motion until you have mastered it. Stand at attention and burst into this position, and do it over and over again until you grab it perfectly everytime. If you get a poor grip on the gun it will be near to impossible to correct while drawing and will cause you to be inaccurate. This step should be practiced as much as possible. It is a short quick motion but extremely important. Its just like a sprinter coming off the blocks, or a quarterback accepting the snap, or a basketball player catching the ball and squaring his shoulders to the hoop, if not done properly it will effect the entire motion and shot.
Your wrist needs to be as straight as an arrow. You will need to pull the pistol straight up out of the holster, if need be move your should upwards or backwards but do not contort your wrist. I recommend to buy a holster that has an open front but a high side wall, so that when you draw you do not have to pull the pistol all the way out of the holster.
Remember to keep your wrist straight or in line with your forearm, then rotate your arm at the shoulder down and forward. This will cause you to point the gun down range and at your target. Make sure to disengage your safety while executing this motion. From this position you can fire at extremely close targets if necessary. Absolutely do not shoot from this position at targets more then 5 feet away. This is called close contact firing position or firing from retention. I recommend dry firing from this position at first using snap caps you can purchase at your local gun store. The key when practicing position two to position three is to keep your wrist inline with your forearm and rotating your shoulder.
When executing position four you need to remember to keep your gun pointed towards the threat, move your gun toward your support hand, then grasp the gun with two hands and push forward just below your dominant shooting eye. While bringing the gun up prepare your support hand to accept the gun quickly and accurately. Your support hand should wrap around the front of the grip and the side encasing the entire handle. Once again you want to keep the barrel of your gun pointing down range at the target so that you are keeping eye contact on your target, if practiced your arms and hands will point the gun directly at what you are looking at. I recommend to set up a camera or have a friend watch, if recording your sessions you can watch and see if you are dipping the nose of the gun down or throwing it up. If you are doing either of these it will cause you to be less efficient when aquiring your target.
You will want to keep your shoulders squared to the threat while extending both arms straight out. It is recommended in a tactical situation to only extend your arms about 2/3 of the way, the reason for this is because it will decrease your visual size and make you a smaller target. At first this will feel weird but you will get used to it, and it is much better for close quarters tactics. At the very last moment you will want to quickly focus your front sight directly on the targets center mass, do not align the front sights with the back sights this will cause you to rotate or bend your wrists and arms and eat up precious time that can be the difference between life and death.
It is highly recommend to perform a tactical reload before re-holstering, it is a great habit to get into.
You will want to re-holster in the exact opposite order of above. Pull the weapon back close to your body than remove your support hand, at this time i recommend you pause for a second and survey the situation and make sure that all targets are subdued and make sure the fight is not gonna resurface. After you are sure the fight is over, put the safety on, rotate your wrist and raise your elbow and push the gun straight down into the holster.
Start off just practicing drawing the weapon up and out(step 1 and 2). Do this motion about 500-1000 times. If you do it this many times it will create muscle memory and you will be suprised at how fast you will be able to draw. When practicing do it with an unloaded gun. Practice for 15-25 minutes a day for a week straight.
Once you have the presentation perfected practice drawing and shooting a target at the range. Some ranges do not allow you to draw and fire so make sure you know the range rules before practicing quick draw firing.
Practice makes perfect, create muscle memory.
Guns are dangerous so make sure you are using proper gun safety procedures.
Take gun safety classes at your local gun range.
Remember to practice this as much as possible. You do not have to be at the range to practice tactical quickdraw, you can do it at home in your living room or bedroom(make sure your weapon is not loaded). Just practice, practice, practice, thats what it will take to be able to perform this presentation perfectly which is the only way to perform this movement. It is not ok to be intermediate at this movement you have to be an expert.
We are gonna be covering how to tell the difference between venomous and non-venomous snakes. Most snakes you see are probably non-venomous but it is always a good idea to know what kind of signs will tell you that its a venomous snake. Most people don’t like snakes but are still fascinated by them. I can tell you that I would never hold a snake again, especially those big boa constrictors. I remember when I was a young boy in elementary school and the Reptile Man would come to our school and we would have an assembly for him. He would pull out all his cool snakes, and lizards, and turtles. I loved it when he came, because the show was fun and looking at them was fun but you couldn’t pay me to touch them. I remember after the assembly he would let students come and touch them or wrap a giant 10 foot boa constrictor around a little kids neck and take pictures. Oh Hell No! not me, not ever.
Alright lets get down to business. Of all snake species on the planet only 1/3 of them are poisonous. There are only 4 different types of poisonous snakes in the U.S. They are Cottonmouths, Copperheads, Rattlesnakes, and last but defiantly not the least Coral Snakes. I will be going over the different poisonous snakes and how to identify a Venomous Snake. So read careful and don’t forget these tips cause these could save your life someday when your out camping, hiking, or hunting.
Cottonmouth Snakes (aka Water Moccasin): First and foremost the best way to tell if it is a poisonous Cottonmouth snake is that it will have elliptical eyes (cat eyes, slits). Cottonmouths can range from Black to green so be aware that they can be different colors. One very distinctive identifying mark is a white stripe that runs down the side of the Cottonmouths head. Young Cottonmouths have bright yellow tails and adults do not have this marker, so just cause it doesn’t have one doesn’t mean its not a Cottonmouth so don’t just use that as the only marker to look for. Cottonmouth habit is usually around water or in water, they also can live on dry land but mostly near rivers, and bodies of water. They usually do not congregate in groups, they are known to be loners.
Rattlesnakes: One obvious sign is the rattle!!! you can’t miss it. Some harmless snakes try to imitate a Rattlesnake by brushing their tails through leaves, but only Rattlesnakes have a button like rattle at the end of their tails. They look and sound like a babies rattle but are much more deadly. Rattlesnakes also have a big, heavy triangle shape head, and elliptical eyes. So if you can’t see their tails look for those two distinguishing factors.
Copperheads: Copperheads are a fascinating species, they are gorgeous snakes but don’t let the beauty fool you. Their bodies are very similar to Cottonmouths but their color is much brighter, which ranges from a coppery brown to a bright beautiful orange, or a silver-pink and peach color. The young ones have a bright yellow tail just like Cottonmouths .
Coral Snakes: This is another beautiful snake but don’t under estimate it cause its pretty. It is very dangerous. Coral Snakes have a very distinctive color pattern. They have a black, yellow, and red bands, a yellow head, and a black bank over their nose. One rhyme to help you remember how to distinguish a Coral Snake from a King Snake cause they are very similar is “Red Touch yellow, kill a fellow. Red touch black, friend to jack”. Another one is “Red on black, lucky jack; red on yellow, he’s one deadly fellow”. Coral Snakes are very shy and will usually run from you then attack you but that doesn’t mean you should try to approach one. Currently their are no known deaths by the Arizona Coral and only a few from the Eastern Coral.
Color Patterns: Venomous Snakes in the U.S. tend to be different colors. If you see a snake that is a solid color in the U.S. it will most likely be non-venomous, but this is not the rule of thumb, some Cottonmouths are venomous and they can almost one solid color.
Head Shape: Non-Venomous snakes usually have a spoon-shaped rounded heads and venomous snakes will usually have a more triangular shaped head. The reason their heads are triangular is because of the venom glands.
Look for a Rattle: If you come across and snake and hear the distinctive rattle then you should stop, locate the snake and if you are a good distance away slowly back away from the snake but make no quikck moves.
Heat Sensor: Some venomous snakes have a depression between their eyes and thir nostrils. This is called a pit, this is used by the snake to sense heat in their prey.
Watch out for Mimics: Some non-venomous snakes will mimic the patterns and behaviors of venomous snakes as a self defense tactic. Eastern milk snakes can look like Copperheads, Rat snakes can look like Rattlers, and a harmless King snake can look like a Coral snake. When you first come across a snake always assume that it is a venomous snake, until you can verify weather it is or is not. Even though you will want to kill a snake when you come across it be careful cause it could be against the law and another reason is because snakes control rodent populations, and also control snake populations as well.
Watch how the snake swims: Another interesting way to tell the difference between a venomous water moccasin/cottonmouth and a harmless water snake is to watch the way it swims, if it swims with only its head above the water, or weather most of its body is floating too. If you only see the snakes head above the water then it is most likely a non-venomous snake, most of the time all venomous snakes will inflate their lungs so that they bodies float while they swim. EIther way it is a good idea to leave the snake alone and let it go about its merry way.
Eyes: One of the easiest and best way to tell if a snake is venomous or non-venomous. If the snake is venomous it will have elliptical eyes like a cat, like the little devils that they are and if it is non-venomous it will have round eyes like a human.
I hope you paid very close attention to this article cause it could save your life sometime. This was not an in-depth post on venomous snakes but it is enough so you can tell the difference between the two and make an educated descision on what to do. One rule of thumb that you should live by is if you see a snake don’t mess with it, just leave it alone and it will most likely leave you alone. Even though snakes are scary, and nasty they are an important part of our ecosystem and they honestly do more good then they do harm. If you have an questions or comments please leave them below. Also don’t forget to click on the button at the bottom of the page and become a follower so you don’t miss out on any new posts.
Welcome back to First Aid Part IV. This is the last part of the first aid survival tips. So make sure to pay attention. Remember that this tips are to be used only in an emergency situation and you should always call 911 first if you are near a hospital. Alright lets see what kind of tips I have in store for you tonight.
Poisoning – Symptoms: Nausea, vomitting, diarrhea, sweating, breathing difficulties. You will experience chest or abdominal pain. You could also have seizures, headaches, dizziness, weakness, irregularpupil size. Your eyes might burn or tear up. You may experience burns on your lips, tongue, skin. You could have abnormal skin color, especially ashen or pale. Possible Condition: Poison ingested, inhaled, absorbed, or injected into your body. For example: snakes, spiders, jelly fish, etc. Course of Action: First you will want to remove the victim from the scene of the poisoning. Check the victim for life threatening conditions and treat the symptoms. If the victim has been poisoned from contact directly to the skin then wash the area with lots of water. Next you will want to apply baking soda or calamine lotion to dry up sores from poison on skin. If the victim ingested the poison then give them lots and lots of water. If the poison that was ingested is non-corosive then induce vomitting to expel from body then give them lots of water( do not induce vomitting if the poison is corrosive because it will damage the throat and stomach lining coming back up). If poison is corrosive (acid or alkaline) do not induce vomitting. Give victim water and then a mild acid or alkaline to neutralize the poison.
Rashes – Symtoms: You will experience weeping, scaling, inflamed skin. Possible Condition: Skin will have rashes that are caused by infection or dirt clogging pores. Course of Action: You will want to treat the rash like you would an open wound-keep it clean and cover it with sterile bandages. If the rash is most it keep dry, if rash is dry then keep it moist. Make sure the apply antiseptics. Absolutely do not scratch the rash, it will only make it worse.
Seizures – Symptoms: Seizures will cause you to have blank stare on yours/the victims face. It will cause disorientation. You will also experience convulsions(uncontrolled muscle movements). Possible Condition: Reaction to extreme heat. It could also be caused by a diabetic reaction. They can also be cause by a traumatic injury to the brain. Course of Action: Absolutely do not try to hold the victim down this may cause injury to you or the victim. Absolutely do not put anything in the victim mouth, the victim may bite down and injury you or himself/herself worse. One thing that you can do to assist the victim is to support the head by using a pillow or a folded up piece of cloth(such as sweatshirt, blanket). If the victims mouth fills with any kind of fluid such as blood, saliva, or vomit, roll the victim on to his/her side to let the liquid drain. Once the seizure has subsided check the victim for breathing and injuries cause by convulsions also assure them that everything is ok and that help is on the way. You might also want to tell them where they are and that they are safe and that you are there to help them.
Shock – Symptoms: You will become irritably, experience restlessness, nausea, vomitting, and excessive thirst. You may also experience an altered state of consciousness. You will also have a rapid breathing and pulse. You may also have skin that is cool, moist, pale, and ashen. Possible Condition: The flow of your blood is inadequate for body’s major organs and tissue (shock). Course of Action: Have the victim lay flat on their back and make sure they are as comfortable as possible. It is also a good idea to elevate the victims feet about 12 inches. It is important to keep the victims skin from getting too warm or cold. You will want to monitors the victims breathing and pulse. Do not give food or water if immediate hospitalization is an option. If hospitalization is not an option make sure to give the victim warm liquids to drink.
Snakebite – Symptoms: You will have extreme pain around the bite marks in the victims skin. The victim will also experience swelling and strong pain around the bite(Pit Vipers). You may also have an allergic reaction. Some more reactions are blurring of vision, loss of reflexes, slurring of speech, nausea, and difficulty breathing(coral snakes). Condition: The venom of a snake bite has been injected into the bloodstream. Course of Action: To treat pit vipers, rattlesnakes, copperheads, or cottonmouths wash the wound; make sure to keep the bite site low and still and below your heart. For coral snakes, the treatment is similar as above but apply an elastic band starting farthest from the heart and rolling it around the wound. You will also want to keep the bite site still and lower then the heart. Make sure to keep the victim calm as possible to keep heart rate low. Absolutely do not apply ice to bite sites, you will want to cut the wound, and apply a tourniquet or apply suction.
Sprains – Symptoms: The sprained body part will swell and start bruising. You will also experience severe pain in the ankle, knee, wrist, and fingers. You will not be able to use the injured area normally, and you will experience weakness in that body part. Possible Condition: Tearing of ligament at joint. Course of Action: For mild sprains you will want to apply ice and elevate. You will also want to get lots of rest. You can also take a Tylenol regiment if not allergic, this will help control the swelling and help with the pain. For severe sprains treat as you would for broken bones.You will want to immobilize the body part as it was found. Do not apply a splint unless you need to move the victim, if you need to move the victim then you can apply a splint by attaching two pieces of wood/board on either side of the area and then wrap with tape or ace bandage. You will want to elevate and apply ice, unless elevating increases the pain.
Thanks for reading the last blog post on First Aid, I hope that over the course of the last 4 posts you have learned something new. I had a great time researching and explaining how to treat injuries, it is something that I have been interested in since I was young. I always wanted to become a sports therapist/physical therapist or sports trainer. I did some volunteer hours with my schools sports trainer and I had a blast helping the athletes when they were injured or wrapping the wrists and ankles with sports tapes to prevent injury. I enjoyed running out on to the field and assessing the situation on the fly and coming to a conclusion and applying my knowledge on how to fix the injury. If you have any questions or comments please leave them below. Also don’t forget to click the button at the bottom of the screen to follow my blog so you don’t miss out on new posts. Thank You!!!!
Welcome back to Part III of Edible Plants. As always I want to let you know that these plants should only be ate if you are in an emergency situation and they should be ate in small quantites. Some of the plants if ate in large quantities can make you sick, so be careful and use good judgement. Alright so this is part III and we have covered quit a bit of different plants that you can eat, some you probably already new about such as blackberries, coconuts, blueberries, but we have also covered quit a bit of ones you probably have never heard of or even seen before. I know there have been a bunch I never even heard of in my whole life. Well lets dive right in and learn some new plants that are edible.
Elderberries: Shrub w/ dark blue-purple fruit. Elderberries grow up to 18 feet tall and they have multiple stems. They have tiny white flowers and they grow in the open in wetlands along lakes and rivers. The flowers and fruits that grow on it are edible raw: but make sure to avoid small red fruits they may be toxic, also the other parts of the shrub are poisonous as well.
Fireweed: Flowering plant two to five feet high. Fireweed produces showy, large pink flowers and lance like leaves. They only grow in cold regions, especially near seashores. You can eat the leaves and stems and flowers raw. You will want to cut the old stems and eat the pith.
Fishtail Palm: Large tree, with irregular toothed leaves. The flower shoots only grow at the tree top. The fishtail palm grows in the tropics of south asia. The flowering shoot also known as “palm cabbage” is edible along with the pith/juice from the plant can be ate/drank. You can either eat the palm cabbage raw or you can cook it for a warm meal.
Grapes: A variety of vines bearing fruit in clusters. Now we all know and love grapes but here is a quick break down. The vines are straggly and produce coursely toothed leaves. Wild grapes can grow anywhere in the world except in high altitudes. You can eat the fruit and young leaves either raw or cooked.
Hazelnuts: Nut-bearing bush. Here is another plant that we are all familiar with. Hazelnuts have large bushes or trees with oval or heart-shaped leaves. Nuts grow in bristly, leafy, or hairy husks. They are mostly found in temperate zones of American West Coast, in Europe, and East Asia. Eat raw or dried. They are rich in oil which makes them great for survival situations.
Iceland Moss: Stumpy moss. The plant is a few inches high. The color can range from gray to white or red. It only grows in the arctic. All parts of the plant are edible. The best way to eat Iceland moss is to boil it to remove the bitterness. You can also dry it out and it will last a long time without spoiling.
Juniper: Tree with tiny, scaly leaves. The plant bears blue, berry-like cones that are covered with a whitish wax. Junipers are recognized by crushing the berries or sap to release the fragrant aroma of gin. They grow in temperate zones of Northern Hemisphere, plus the mountains of Africa. The berries are edible and you can eat them raw, and you can take the twigs and boil them into a wonderfully aromatic tea.
Lamb’s Quarters: Annual, flowering weed. Has dull green oval or spear-shaped leaves with mealy undersides and greenish flower spikes at the end of two to four foot long stems. The plant is distributed throughout temperate zones of Northern Hemisphere. The leaves and stems are edible.
Lotus (Water Lily): Flowering water plant. The leaves and flowers float on the surface of still water. The leaves can grow up to four feet long and the flowers are a beautiful yellow or pink. The fruit is flat and seedy. The yellow flower varieties grow in North American temperate zones. The pink variety grows in East Asia. All parts are edible. Pull up/dig up stems for baking or boiling.
Thanks for reading Part III of edible plants, i hope you learned something new today. Remember that only eat this plants if you are in an emergency situations. Some of these can be toxic if ate in large quantities so be careful. Use you better judgement when eating this plants, like eat as much of the hazelnuts if you want unless you are allergic then do not touch them. If you do refer to my first aid tips post. Remember to leave comments or questions below and also don’t forget to click on the follow button so you don’t miss out on any new posts. Thank you.
Welcome to Part III of emergency first aid. Remember that these are tips if you are in an emergency and do not have access to a hospital. You should always take anyone who is hurt to a hospital if you have that option available and remember to always call 911, do not hesitate because a few seconds could be the difference between life and death or coherent or vegetable. All right lets jump right in and get out boots muddy.
Electrical Injuries – Symptoms: Thermal burns, usually there will be a entry wound and an exit wound with lightening. The patient will most likely go into shock, they will experience breathing difficulties and cessations or could possibly have no pulse. Possible Condition: Electrical burns. Electric shock. Course of Action: Do not approach the victim until you know for sure that the victim does not have electricity still running through his body. Immediately cover the wounds with sterile, dry dressings and bandages. Treat victim for shock and administer CPR if needed.
Frostbite – Symptoms: The part of the body that is frostbitten will have a loss of sensation. The skin will appear waxy. It will also be cold and white, yellow, blue or flushed. Possible Condition: Parts of your body have been exposed to extremely low temperatures for an extended period of time. Course of Action: Remove any accessories from the area that has been exposed and is frostbitten. Immediately soak the affected area in a warm bath (make sure the water is no more then 105 degrees F) until color and warmth returns. Dress frostbitten area with sterile dressings and bandages. If your hands and feet are frostbitten place the gauze between the toes and fingers. A tip to help warm up the hands is to place them under your armpits; and if possible place your frostbitten feet on another persons stomach. It is very important to remember absolutely DO NOT RUB FROSTBITTEN SKIN.
Fungal Infections – Symptoms: The skin that is infected especially the feet and groin will be covered with irritating rash, blisters, swelling, itching, and scales. Possible Condition: Fungal Infection growing on body. Course of Action: Make sure to keep the infected area clean and dry at all times. A great cure for a fungal infection is to expose the infected area to sunlight as much as possible. Also make sure not to scratch the area. Another form of treatment is ointments, and powders.
Heat-Related Illnesses – Symptoms: You will experience cramps, dizziness, weakness, nausea, pale skin, you will be flushed, your skill will be moist and cool, or ashen. You will also experience a rapid but weak pulse. Possible Condition: If the victim is experiencing cramps get them to a cool area, give them cool water to drink; and massage and stretch affected muscles. If the victim is experiencing heat exhaustion then move them to a cool place as well; make sure to loosen the clothing so its not touching their skin. Then apply wet towels directly to the skin, fan victims body; give cool water to drink. For heat stroke, follow the same steps for heat exhaustion. Make sure to make them rest on their side; absolutely do not let the victim to continue their normal activities for rest of the day and then have them re-evaluate them the next day before allowing to return to any physical activities.
Hypothermia – Symptoms: The victim will have a glassy stare, they will shiver, and experience numbness. They also may become unconscious. Possible Condition: The victims entire body’s temperature will loss heat and drop below safe temp levels. Course of Action: First and foremost remove any wet clothing from the victims body and get them dry ASAP. You will want to gradually warm the victim by adding layers gradually. Once they have reached a safe temp put them in warm, dry clothing and have them move to a warm, dry place. Once you have moved them to a warm environment give them warm liquids but make sure they do not contain any alcohol or caffeine. Usually most people think of tea but make sure its a non caffeinated tea. The reason i keep saying gradually is cause you do not want to warm the victim to quickly or submerse them in a warm bath because it could cause heart problems.
Insect and Scorpion Stings – Symptoms: There will be extreme pain in effected area. The victim also might have an allergic reaction. They also may have excessive salivating from the mouth this will be associated with the venom from spider and scorpions bites/stings. Possible Condition: This may be caused by bee stings, spider bites, scorpion stings, etc. Course of Action: If the victim has been stung then first you will want to remove the stinger with either tweezers, your fingernails, or you can run a credit card over your skin. Wash the area with warm water and soap. Cover with a bandage and keep it clean, then apply ice to reduce swelling. After the sting immediately check for anaphylactic shock. If the victim is stung by a scorpion or bit by a spider, wash the wound and apply an ice pack. If available and victim needs it give them antivenin.
I hope you learned some new first aid tips reading this post. Remember that only use these tips if you are in an emergency situation and can not access a hospital. Always call 911 or take the victim to an emergency room if that option is available. Please leave any comments or questions below, also don’t forget to click on the button at the bottom of the screen to follow my blog and stay up to date on all new posts. Thank you and hope to have you back soon.
We will be picking right up where we left off, we finished with the most popular rounds and now we are going to move onto how to practice reloading your pistol.
When practicing reloading your pistol you should be practice with at least two different pistols. One primary and one secondary. If you practice enough you will not have to think about the process it will come natural to you, you will build muscle memory. So instead of thinking is the slide locked? -> press magazine release -> magazine is clear -> grab new magazine -> insert new magazine with correct orientation -> release slide. Those are the steps you take to reload a magazine. It may seem like a lot when put on paper but if you practice it will become second nature. The reason you need to practice is so when you are in a life threatening situation you don’t have to think about reloading your pistol you will do it and you will be able to focus on the situation at hand instead.
You should be able to load your handgun rapidly, and flawlessly 100% of the time – w/o looking at your hands, your pistol, or your magazines.
An Emergency reload is when you have fired all the rounds in the current magazine and your slide is in the locked back position. You should be able to reload your magazine while your gun is still pointed at the target. Psychologically, lowering your gun gives the perp an advantage over you and keeps you focused on your gun and not on the perp who is trying to hurt you and your loved ones. The technique you want to use is: when the slide locks back, you want to remove a magazine from your magazine belt clip. As you move the fresh magazine to the gun, eject the current empty magazine letting it fall to the floor. Align the magazine against the magazine well and slam the magazine home with some force, seat the magazine using the palm of your hand; then push the slide release and allow the slide to slam forward. This is not a gentle process, it should be fast, loud, and aggressive. You should also enjoy the primal feeling that you get when doing this procedure.
A Tactical reload is when there is a pause in the gun fight and you have the opportunity to duck behind cover. Currently your magazine still has some rounds in it but you know you are running low, this is when you should reload so when you resume the firefight you will have a full magazine to work with. Now this drill is a little different then an emergency reload. What you will want to do is: From behind cover reach into your mag pouch/holder and grab the mag with your thumb, pointer, and middle finger. Move the mag back to the gun while you eject the partially spent mag into your hand, catch the ejected mag with your ring finger, pinkie, and the palm of your hand (in the emergency reload you let your empty mag hit the floor but since there are still rounds in this mag you will want to catch it and save it for later). After catching the partially used mag, insert the mag with your fingers and give it a little tug to make sure it is seated properly (since you have your partially used mag in your hand you can not slam it home like before). Since you didn’t run out of ammo you don’t have to manipulate the slide and you should have a round already loaded as well so do not cock the gun or you will eject a perfectly good round.
This section we will be going over Malfunctions,unfortunately with semi-automatic handguns you will eventually have a malfunction no matter how well made the gun is. It might take 50,000 rounds but you will experience one and its good to know how to fix a malfunction.
Type-1 malfunction: This is a failure-to-fire (FTF) malfunction. When you pull the trigger and you hear a “click” instead of a “Ka-Boom” then you know there is something wrong. This is the simplest type of malfunction, and the easiest to fix: just tap, rack/filp and viola its fixed.
Type-2 malfunction: Is a failure-to-eject is a common problem on older 1911s and other guns with shorter ejectors. This type of malfunction is affectionately known as a “stove pipe.” The symptom of this malfunction is a “dead trigger”, and there will probably be a brass casing poking out of the ejection port but not always, and the slide is not all the way forward. To fix it do the same method as Type-1: Tap, Rack/Flip.
Type-3 Malfuntions: This is known as “The Mother of All Malfunctions” (MOAM) by some. This is a feed-way stoppage, which means that too much brass is in the chamber at the same time. If you do get a type-3 malfunction under fire, may instructors will tell you to grab your back up but sometimes that is not an option. First thing you will want to do is find cover before executing. To Clear: Grab your slide and lock it back. Press the mag eject, and grab the magazine and toss it to the ground. Grab the slide and rack it hard 3 times in a row. Then reach for a brand new mag and slam it home and rack a new round into the chamber. Some pistols, notably glocks, may be cleared of a type-3 malfunction simply by dropping the mag far enough to allow the slide to go forward and then re-seating the mag with authority, slam the damn thing home hard!!! If the slide goes completely forward then the gun is ready to fire, if it does not go all the way forward then perform Type-1 clearing action.
Type-4 malfunction: Type-4 malfunction is very uncommon, and if it ever happens to you when you are practicing with your gun at the range, throw the fucking gun away and get a new one. Just kidding don’t be rude but you do have a serious problem that is a manufacturing fault. THis malfunction is when the slide does not go back into battery after firing. This might happen because your guide rod or guide rails are really gummed up (to the point where it looks as if there is a wad of chewed up gum in it), your guide spring is too weak or your chamber design is bad. This should never happen in a modern semi-automatic pistol. What I recommend is to either send the gun back to the manufacture to have their professional gunsmiths look at it and fix it or take it to a local gunsmith you know and trust.
Today we went over some more of the technical aspects of how to be combat ready but they are just as important. Next we will be going over how to “Point Shoot and Flash Sighting”. It should be fun so stay tuned and make sure you click on the follow button so stay up to date on the blog.